The best trip I’ve ever taken has been a 10-day self drive road trip around Iceland’s Ring Road (Route 1). Some destinations are planned but stopping at the random “Attraction” signs adds even more things to see. Sometimes these attractions were for a hidden waterfall. Other times it was for an abandoned sheep fold or the Icelandic ponies. If you have a chance, doing the drive yourself/with friends will be SO rewarding but I can also say that the bus tours are a lot of fun and you still get to see a the major attractions in the country.
If you’re looking for bite size posts or shorter itineraries, check these out:
3-day Summer Itinerary
4-day Summer Itinerary
4-day Winter Itinerary
Iceland Winter Packing List
Iceland on a Budget
- Driving the Ring Road
- Tips for a Budget/Cost Friendly Trip in Iceland
- Photography Tips for Iceland
- Seasons of Iceland
- 10-day Iceland Ring Road Itinerary
- Road Trip in Southeast Iceland
- Eastfjords and Egilsstaðir
- Selfoss and Dettifoss waterfalls, Krafla and Viti Crater, Godafoss, Akureyri
- Westfjords, Gardens Skrúður and Waterfalls, Dynjandi, Látrabjarg Cliffs, man-made hot springs
- Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss, Gerduberg Basalt Columns, Glanni Waterfall, Deildartunguhver hot springs, Tröllafossa
- Glymur Waterfall, Akranes, Akranes Lighthouses, Vitakaffi
- Reykjanes Peninsula, Giganta, Vikingheimer, Duus Museum and Duushús, Gardur twin lighthouses, The Bridge Between Two Continents, Gunnuhver hot springs
- Urridafoss, Stöng, Gjáin, Hjalparfoss, Skafthold Sheepfold, Icelandic ponies, Kerið Crater, lava cave
- (Golden Circle): Faxi Waterfall, Gullfoss, Geysir and Strokkir geysers, Þingvellir National Park and Öxarárfoss, Gljúfrabúi Waterfall
Driving the Ring Road
There are a few options for driving the ring road yourself. You can rent a car and camp or stay in guesthouses, or rent a camper van and stay at camp sites. You can purchase the Campingcard for the most cost effective way to make your way around the Iceland Ring Road (Route 1). Realistically, you could do the ring road in about 7 days and hit all the major attractions. A 10-day road trip in Iceland gives some flexibility to stay longer at some stops and drive less per day. I recommend this itinerary for at least 2 people driving in the same car. You’ll want to split up the driving!
Something else to keep in mind is that Iceland has 24 hour sunlight in the summer and 24 hour darkness in the winter. Give yourself more time in the winter to avoid driving at night in poor conditions.
My friend and I decided to keep costs as low as possible and rent a small car and stay at the parking lots along the way. We would stop at camp sites and pay for showers in the evening and continue driving through the night. (Note: I believe you now have to pay for those parking lots.) A small car is only possible during the summer months. If you plan to drive the Ring Road in the spring or winter, you’ll need 4-wheel drive. There were a few roads we drove on that were super sketchy in the small sedan. You may even get caught in a sand storm or blizzard!
If you’re renting a vehicle, hold on to your doors. Rental insurance does not cover wind damage. On our last day the person who parked beside us did not hold their door and the wind blew their door into our vehicle. We got lucky that we were in the car when hit and could take their insurance information but it would have been an expensive fix otherwise.
The views are AMAZING. From the beginning to the end of the road trip, my friend and I were constantly “Oooh, Ahh, Wow”ing. The landscapes are stunning and there are SO many things to see. It is a photographers dream! I’ve now been twice and I definitely plan to go back for a photography trip.
Tips for a Budget/Cost Friendly Trip in Iceland
Read this post for a more in-depth Iceland Budget. BudgetYourTrip.com is an incredibly handy and accurate tool to determine a budget for a trip. I use this to plan all my trips to get a good sense of how much I need to save to travel. Something I didn’t quite grasp when doing my budget was how expensive food is in Iceland. While Iceland sustainably sources their groceries, and many fruits and vegetables are grown year-round in greenhouses using geothermal energy (of which there is an abundance in Iceland), Iceland imports a lot of food/farming equipment and has a 14% VAT tax on food which drives prices up.
Ways to save: shop at the BONUS Grocery Store to stock up on food. Shopping at local grocery stores and making your own food is always an easy way to save on food. Another tip is to eat out for lunch instead of dinner to save a few bucks. Stop at the natural hot springs on the side of the Ring Road rather than go to Blue Lagoon.
Photography Tips for Iceland
There are around 10,000 waterfalls in Iceland. If you’re visiting between May and August, nighttime has daylight so you’re going to want a tripod and polarizer for long exposure shots of the waterfalls. I had just started learning about photography the first time I went and wish I had a wide angle lens at the time. Even if you’re just starting out, I guarantee you’ll capture stunning photos of this beautiful country. (If you don’t already, make sure you shoot in RAW. You’ll thank me later).
If you’re visiting between September and May, bring your tripod to take photos of the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) in Iceland. Ideal months for the Northern Lights in Iceland are between October and March.
Seasons of Iceland
Iceland is always windy. “If you don’t like the weather in Iceland, just wait 5 minutes” is a common saying. I found the Icelandic winter is more moderate than Canadian winters. I brought my parka but often just had on a light jacket and warm winter boots during the day and was warm. Spring and summer temperatures also don’t get incredibly warm. In the spring, you’ll definitely want a rain jacket but you’ll spend most days in a sweater, pants and comfortable walking shoes. I wouldn’t bother with an umbrella because of the wind! Read my What to Wear in Icelandic Winters post here.
10-day Iceland Ring Road Itinerary
Your ultimate 10-day Iceland Ring Road Itinerary is below. The route is approximately 2,000 km long. It has a total driving time of more than 24 hours with lots of stops along the way. You’ll experience waterfalls, puffins, man-made hot springs, lighthouses, and more waterfalls.
1/2: Southeast Iceland (Seljalandsfoss, Gljúfrabúi Waterfall, Sólheimasandur airplane wreckage, Skogafoss, Elephant Rock, Dyrholaey Headlands, Skaftafell, Svartifoss, Vatnajökull Glacier Hike, Jökulsárlón Lagoon, Hofn)
3: East Iceland (Egilsstaðir and East Fjords)
4: North Iceland (Selfoss and Dettifoss waterfalls, Krafla and Viti Crater, Goðafoss, Akureyri)
5: West Iceland (Westfjords, Kaldbakur mountain, Gardens Skrúður, Dynjandi, Látrabjarg Cliffs for puffins, man-made hot springs)
6: West Iceland (Gudrunarlaug hot spring, Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss, Gerduberg Basalt Columns, Glanni Waterfall, Deildartunguhver hot springs, Tröllafossa)
7: West Iceland (Glymur Waterfall, Akranes, Akranes Lighthouses, Vitakaffi)
8: Reykjanes Peninsula, Giganta, Vikingheimer, Duus Museum and Duushús, Gardur twin lighthouses, The Bridge Between Two Continents, Gunnuhver hot springs
9: Urridafoss, Stöng, Gjáin, Hjalparfoss, Skafthold Sheepfold, Icelandic ponies, Kerið Crater, lava cave
10 (Golden Circle): Faxi Waterfall, Gullfoss, Geysir and Strokkir geysers, Þingvellir National Park and Öxarárfoss, Gljúfrabúi Waterfall
[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1r6Aqvo-rYMomxZe2xyuHxZu9zps&w=640&h=480]
Road Trip in Southeast Iceland
The first two days on the Ring Road in southern Iceland are packed with activities! We rented a little Toyota Yaris from Blue Car Rental and because of this had to stick to the Ring Road (i.e. Route 1). With four major waterfalls, a national park and the potential for a Glacier Hike, you won’t be disappointed on your first few days.
Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi Waterfall. Seljalandsfoss is the waterfall you can walk behind (during the summer months). Gljúfrabúi waterfall is a hidden gem about 1 km up the path from Seljalandsfoss. You can expect to get wet from visiting both of these waterfalls up close.
Elephant Rock: The Elephant Rock is a natural rock formation located approximately 7.4 kilometres off Iceland’s South Coast. Taking the road across the Ring Road from Seljalandsfoss will bring you to Landeyjahöfn where you can take a boat out to Elephant Rock. In the right season, you might be able to catch the puffins and/or whale watch on the boat tour. I recommend the Elephant Rock boat tour in the summer and the Vatnajökull glacier hike in the winter.
Skógafoss Waterfall: Skógafoss is a waterfall on the Skógá River and is about 25 m wide by 60 m tall. You can see the waterfall from the top (walking up 370 stairs) or from the bottom year round. It almost always has a rainbow and if you’re lucky you’ll get a double rainbow. Legend has it that the first Viking settled buried treasure in a cave behind the waterfall.
You may be able to spot Skogafoss in Thor: The Dark World, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, and Game of Thrones (season 8).
Sólheimasandur airplane wreckage: This epic 1973 plane crash is on the black sand beaches in southeast Iceland. Everyone on the plane survived! It’s only accessibly by walking about an hour from the road on the black sand beaches but it’s worth the adventure! Be cautious and watch the weather. High winds may cause sand storms and it’s hard to find on the best of days. The coordinates are (63 27.546-19 21.887).
NOTE: The plane is smoking in my photo below because TrueNorth, an Icelandic production company, was filming when we arrived and had smoke bombs. It’s not normally smoking!!
Dyrholaey Headlands: Just before getting to Vik, take a right to the Dyrholaey Headlands. At about 120 m with a naturally eroded gate, boats can sail through when the waters are calm. Some areas are protected year round and others are protected during specific seasons for wildlife. You can walk out to the headland, and also check out where the water meets the black sand beach.
Skaftafell National Park and Svartifoss: One of my favourite Iceland Ring Road stops is this National Park. A short and easy trail from the parking lot will take you to Svartifoss. The waterfall is surrounded by dark lava columns that formed when lava was quickly cooled. It makes for an impressive landscape! Depending on your timing, you can spend longer hiking the National Park.
If you’re visiting Iceland in the winter, I highly recommend the Glacier Hike. If you’re visiting in the summer, I recommend the Elephant Rock. You can do a boat tour to also see the puffins and whales but you’ll see puffins later in this trip as well! The lagoon and diamond beach are excellent and also included in many bus tours that travel southeast Iceland.
Arctic Adventures Glacier Tour: We booked the Glacier Experience tour with Arctic Adventures to hike the Vatnajökull Glacier. Normally I’m all about self-guided tours but the experience was too good to pass up. You cannot hike the glacier by yourself, even if you are an experienced climber. Harnesses, crampons, ice picks and helmets are provided. For an additional fee, you can rent hiking boots. The tour is approximately 5.5 hours total and it’s recommended you wear winter gear (jacket, hat, gloves, warm pants). The tour guides are fantastic and provide loads of information about glaciers. The glacier next to Vatnajökull is frequently used in films: Game of Thrones, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, and King Fu Yoga among others. I could go on and on about the hike but in summary: great guides that were very informed about glaciers; good physical activity for the day (great way to stretch your legs after a day of driving); witnessed landslides of ice breaking off; the water off the glacier is clean enough to drink; highly recommend this tour!
Jökulsárlón Lagoon and Diamond Beach: Jökulsárlón Lagoon is a glacial lagoon with icebergs that have broken from the surrounding glaciers to float in the lagoon. If you’re lucky and visiting in the winter, you’ll see hundreds of seals on the icebergs and beaches. Across the road is the Black Sand Diamond Beach. Chunks of ice wash up on the black sand beach and look like diamonds in the sun. Some chunks of ice are large enough to sit on (be careful not to be washed away if the tide is high) and it’s also an excellent place to catch a sunset.
Hofn: Hofn is a small fishing town in southeast Iceland. It is the perfect place to stay before heading to the east fjords and northerly. I recommend Pakkhún Restaurant and the lobster pizza. (NOTE: a full lobster dinner is around $80 at a local restaurant in Hofn). The local Icelandic beers are Gull and Tuborg which you’ll find at any restaurant. There are a number of hotels to stay in for the night before continuing on.
Eastfjords and Egilsstaðir
The Iceland Ring Road offers the most stunning scenery. The Eastfjords has amazing scenery, fishing villages, dense forests and traditional farms as well as hosts the country’s only herds of reindeer. The reindeer were imported for farming but were later let free to roam. You can also see the puffins in the side of the cliffs.
Egilsstaðir: Visit the Heritage museum and/or the Vok baths spa, or stop to see the Northern Lights in the winter months. Be weary in the winter months: the road to Egilsstaðir is sometimes closed due to poor weather conditions!
Seyðisfjörðuris: check out the rainbow brick path through the center of town in Seyðisfjörðuris, Iceland.
Selfoss and Dettifoss waterfalls, Krafla and Viti Crater, Godafoss, Akureyri
Dettifoss waterfall: About 2 hours from Egilsstaðir and a detour from the Iceland Ring Road, you’ll find a mother and daughter set of waterfalls. (Selfoss waterfall is not to be confused with Selfoss the town). The falls is 100 metres (330 feet) wide and 45 metres (150 feet) tall: a walk-out is set-up above Dettifoss but be careful – the mist from the waterfall makes the walkway incredibly slippery.
Krafla and Viti Crater: Krafla is about 1 hour from Dettifoss and is an inactive volcano turned power plant facility and Viti Crater is located just past the power plants. Viti Crater is inaccessible during the winter and even in May was an inaccessible hike around the crater. Across the road is the Myvatn geothermal area with a large outdoor hot spring pool. Don’t worry though – Kerid Crater is coming up later in the itinerary!
Goðafoss Waterfall: This waterfall is located about an hour from Krafla and is on the fourth largest river in Iceland. The name Goðafoss means either waterfall of the gods or waterfall of the ‘goði’ (i.e. priest/ chieftain).
Akureyri (the capital in the north): Iceland’s second largest city at 15,000 people (Reykjavik is the largest at 200,000 which is 2/3 of the entire population of Iceland) is about 45 minutes from Goðafoss. We went for a hike in the woodland area of Kjarnaskagour. There is a free art museum and botanical gardens in the summer months.
Westfjords, Gardens Skrúður and Waterfalls, Dynjandi, Látrabjarg Cliffs, man-made hot springs
This day requires a lot of driving, which is easier with more than one person. The Westfjords have windy roads and there are lots of picturesque stops along the way. A large majority of the roads through the Westfjords were gravel roads with posted speeds of 80 km/h but I was doing maybe 50 km/h.
Westfjords: If you’re lucky, you’ll spot some seals bathing in the sun. From a distance, they look like rocks so wait until you see them move! Also keep an eye out for Seal Spotting signs. We put our destination in for Dynjandi waterfall and enjoyed the scenic views.
Gardens Skrúður and Waterfalls: The oldest botanical garden in Iceland is worth a stop in the summer but can certainly be removed from the list in spring, fall and winter. Keep a lookout while you’re driving for waterfalls on the side of the Ring Road. They’re all very quaint and would be a great stop for a picnic.
Dynjandi: The translation of Dynjandi it “thundering noise” which is a perfect description of this waterfall: you can hear the water thundering over the rocks as you’re driving up to it. It’s also described as the Jewel of the Westfjords and it’s definitely one of the top two destination I recommend in West Iceland. The views from Dynjandi are also just as stunning and you’ll see them on your walk back to your vehicle.
Látrabjarg Cliffs: (one of National Geographic’s top 10 views of the ocean and well worth the title). My favourite part of the entire trip were the puffins! Be careful at the edge of the cliffs: the puffins burrow in to the side of the cliff, making it incredibly fragile. You need to spread your weight out and crawl on your stomach, rather than walk to the edge of the cliff to see these cuties. I definitely recommend a telephoto lens to capture the puffins if you have one. These were taken at 200 mm and heavily cropped.
Man-made Hot Springs: There will be signs along the Ring Road that look like they’re for swimming pools when in fact they are for hot springs. There are several natural geothermal pools in the Westfjords of Iceland: Krosslaug hot spring (well maintained with a small fee); Nauteyrarlaug natural hot spring (has a small changing station); and Hellulaug (just off the highway near the Vatnsfjörður beach) to name a few. We stopped at Gudrunarlaug hot springs which has a changing hut but be mindful of the personal residence that is close by but it’s quite the trek from the Látrabjarg Cliffs.
Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss, Gerduberg Basalt Columns, Glanni Waterfall, Deildartunguhver hot springs, Tröllafossa
Kirkjufell and Kirkjufellsfoss: Kirkjufell is the most photographed mountain in Iceland and with the view of Kirkjufellfoss you can certainly see why. If you can swing it, this is definitely somewhere you want to set up camp and wait until the Northern Lights are out. In the summer months, you can take a 7 km hike around the base of the mountain that is moderately easy.
Gerduberg Basalt Columns: Gerðuberg is a row of hexagonal basalt columns along a cliff on the southern side of the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula.They are formed the same way the basalt columns at Svartifoss are formed by quickly cooled lava You can see them from the road but I highly recommend parking and getting closer as they are way more impressive when you stand beside them.
Glanni Waterfall: As you may have noticed by this point, there are a plethora of waterfalls within Iceland, each with their own story to tell and unique beauty to offer the viewer. Glanni Waterfall is a short turn off Route 1 and a 150 m walk. If you visit in the summer, you might be able to catch the salmon jumping in the water.
Deildartunguhver hot springs: the most powerful geothermal spring in Europe, where the temperatures reach well over 100C! There are wooden walkways that take you through the area that won’t put you at risk of being burned by the boiling water. Located near by is the Krauma Geothermal Bath & Spa – a smaller and cheaper alternative to the Blue Lagoon.
Tröllafossa: This is a great Iceland Ring Road stop for families. There was an obstacle course and plaques with excerpts from “The Troll Book” along a marked path. This is another popular salmon river and you can see salmon jumping in July/August. Legend has it if you wish into a stone and add it to the top of a cairn your wish will come true. The highlight in “The Troll Book” was, atop a large cairn, the troll elder laid an imprint of their hand within a stone. The cairn was accompanied by the following: “Place your right hand on your heart and your left hand on the uppermost slab. Take a deep breath, close your eyes, and think of all the good things that have befallen you on your path through life”.
Glymur Waterfall, Akranes, Akranes Lighthouses, Vitakaffi
Glymur Waterfall: This is a difficult hike to see Icelands tallest waterfall at 198 m. On the hike we passed through caves, walked across a log over a raging river, scaled the side of a mountain (at one point you have to climb up the side of the mountain with assistance from a rope where my foot was wider than the path we walked on). Even so, there were young children and an elderly couple on the trail who may be better prepared and more experience than we were. There is a lookout midway through the hike which offers fantastic views and if you’re a little more daring than we were you can continue to the top of the waterfall.
Akranes: Akranes is a port town with one of the most picturesque lighthouses in the world. The lighthouse is an excellent spot to take a break, have some lunch and relax. We stopped at Vitakaffi and tried Eintök (an Icelandic white ale beer). You can stay in Akranes for the evening or drive to Reykjanesbær on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Note: there is a a toll of 1000kr for the 6 km tunnel under a mountain that is unavoidable here.
Reykjanes Peninsula, Giganta, Vikingheimer, Duus Museum and Duushús, Gardur twin lighthouses, The Bridge Between Two Continents, Gunnuhver hot springs
Reykjanes Peninsula: There are a few stops to make on the Reykjanes Peninsula including:
- Giganta: She is a good natured 400 year old giant and the main character in an adorable children’s book series by Herdis Egilsdóttir.She currently resides in the Black Cave at the Marina in Gróf. A great stop for a family with children.
- Vikingheimer: A museum with an outdoor walking history museum and a settlement zoo.
- Duus Museum and Duushús. An incredibly interesting museum residing in a house built in the 1890’s requiring very little restoration. The attic and upper floor show belongings that were in the house when Reykjanesbaer bought it. The Maritime Centre had over 100 model boats (all made by Grimur Karlsson) and information on the fishing industry. May’s art exhibit was by local students. Finally, a room with information about the Rekjanes Geopark was a very interesting read (volcanoes, lava rocks, local wildlife and other geological facts to educate yourself).
- Gardur twin lighthouses. 14 ships ran aground before the lighthouse was built in 1897. A newer lighthouse was built in 1944 due to the receding and degrading shoreline.
- The Bridge Between Two Continents. A bridge that crosses a canyon formed by the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates diverging.
- Gunnuhver Hot Springs. Take a short walk up to the shoreline for some amazing views of the ocean.
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